| Paw Colors | Points |
|---|---|
| Grey | 0-49 |
| Red | 50-149 |
| Orange | 150-299 |
| Green | 300-599 |
| Magenta | 600-1499 |
| Purple | 1500-4999 |
| Blue | 5000-9999 |
| Brown | 10000-24999 |
| Black | 25000+ |
TheBeastmaster's Profile
Paw Level: 10
Member Since: 4 / 1 / 2008
Categories: Cat Care, Feeding, Health, Products
What they should eat depends upon what you choose to feed them. I highly recommend researching raw feeding, but if you're not yet up to that, then start with a good commercial canned food. Don't feed any dry food whatsoever - it's highly "addictive" and you don't want a kibble junky on your hands!
Kittens do not need to eat "kitten" food. This is because most of the kitten foods on the market differ from adult food in very few, unimportant ways: The kibble bits are smaller (that's nice), they have a little more protein (but probably not meat-based protein), and they're higher in calories (that's nice, but.....)
Kittens do not need anything that adults don't, and vice versa. Kittens will not be harmed by eating adult foods, but they may not be getting their caloric requirements unless they're fed enough of it.
The best thing to feed a kitten, if you're willing to learn about it, is a raw meat diet. If you want to learn more, search for raw feeding at Yahoo Groups. There are several very good groups out there.
Or you can select a good commercial canned food and call it a day. The What to feed link offers many suggestions. Even though they don't market themselves as "kitten" foods, they are appropriate so long as you feed according to the guidelines.
Taken from http://www.maxshouse.com/feline_nutrition.htm:
Energy Requirements for Kittens and Adult Cats
Age kcal/lb body wt
Kittens: 10 weeks 113
20 weeks 59
30 weeks 45
40 weeks 36
Adult Cats: Inactive 18
Active 20-30
Pregnant 45
Lactating* 56--145
This site has another table showing the minimum protein allowances for cats v. kittens. It boils down to kittens needing 4% more protein than adults. There were other items in there, but it didn't vary widely at all.
One word of warning - if you're feeding an adult cat dry food from the grocery store, then I would probably stick with the kitten food for the kitten. Because the adult's food is inferior, I think it would be better for the kitten to get the questionable benefits from the kitten food. But of course a better idea would be to feed both of them a better food.
Source Link: What to feed
Source Link: Marketing Magic:
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Keeping cats indoors will decrease the likelihood that they'll get fleas. It's no guarantee but there are other benefits to this as well.
Keeping your cats in the very best of health (a combination of good luck and proper nutrition) will also decrease the chances that they'll get fleas. Case in point: I have two cats, one in rude health and the other with digestive and weight issues. Only ONE of them got fleas. Sophie never had a problem.
If there is a cat population in your neighborhood, you might benefit from adding beneficial nematodes to your yard. These microscopic "worms" will eat up any flea larva in your yard, which will keep them off your kitties if they go outdoors, or will eat up anything left by neighborhood prowlers.
I think that's it for "natural" prevention. Now you need to rely on chemicals, but they don't have to be highly toxic.
As I mentioned, one of my girls got fleas last summer. I did some research and came up with a plan of attack. I'll share that info with you here.
1. Treat the cat. Go to your vet and get either Advantage or Frontline Plus (I went with Advantage).
2. Get yourself a "flea comb" and comb your cat at least once per day. Have a bucket with dish soap in it handy to dunk the comb in and to collect the hair. Fleas can't jump out of the slippery soap. No point in combing them out only to have them jump back on your cat. Flush this down the toilet, pour it down the sink, or dispose of it away from your house.
3. Treat your house. Options are a borate powder product or something that uses diatomaceous earth. Fleabusters (BP), Fleago Natural Flea Control (BP) or Flea Away Natural Flea Powder (DE). Put about a tablespoon of this in your vacuum cleaner bag (or you can cut up a flea collar to put in there. Just follow the directions which will vary by product, but in general you'll sprinkle on the carpet and vacuum up and also sprinkle into cracks and crevices. (I chose Fleago because it's less expensive than Fleabusters. I may also try Flea Away in time).
4. Vacuum as often as possible. Before vacuuming, stomp around the house. This will bring the fleas to life because they'll think there's a tasty morsel out there. Then vacuum those little bastards up. Be sure to use your attachments to vacuum as many cracks and crevices as you can - they love to hide out there.
5. Wash any pet bedding in hot water, and you'll want to be particularly diligent about vacuuming/treating areas where your cat hangs out.
6. Treat your yard. Even if your cat doesn't go outside, fleas may enter your home if they exist in your yard. There's a small chance that you or others may bring fleas in the house with you (although this is unlikely). Get hold of some nematodes to spray in your yard. I believe you only have to do this once per year. These little creatures will eat the flea larva. As one website put it, these critters are too small to hug, but they deserve it! (I had to order this online; I wasn't able to find a place that sells them in my area and didn't feel like calling every place in the phonebook).
Things not to do: Don't use any essential oils on your cat, particularly anything with pennyroyal or eucalyptus. They're toxic to cats. Don't use flea collars. Don't give your cat any garlic/yeast formulations. Don't give your cat lemon baths.
You're going to want to continue treating your home as directed, whether that be sprinkling once per week or once a month. Continue treating throughout flea season (when it's warm). You can stop during the winter months, but start up again in the spring. You'll nip them in the bud!
The key is to treat the environment in addition to the cat. If you do that, you may never have to apply another flea product directly on them again.
Source Link: Fleas!
1 Answer | Asked By: charlikins 57
I started feeding raw about 6 months ago. One cat is on it completely, the other is still being transitioned. Personally, the biggest benefit I've seen so far is reduced feeding costs! This is not to be sneezed at. While I will not stint on giving my girls the best, it was somewhat painful feeding canned food at $1.79 per 5 oz can for two cats. The cost of raw is so much less. And there is a green factor. No more cans being recycled! From the kitty point of view, though, the biggest benefit I have seen so far is more cat-like behavior from my overweight shy girl. I haven't yet seen the weight loss I'm hoping for but I'm not surprised since during the transition period I probably overfed. But I'm sure that will be happening soon. In the meantime, though, Poppy has perked up. She actually plays now!
The first step really needs to be research. Once you've learned and decided on a few things, you'll ready to start introducing cat to meat.
You need to find a supplier. You need to decide on a method (ground, whole, etc.) You need to decide which meats to use. You need to know whether you need to supplement, and if you do, what supplements to use. And most importantly, you need to get your cat to eat it.
1. Finding a supplier.
A. Find a local supplier. If you're in the midwest, I recommend Taylor Pond Farms. I buy my meat from them and it couldn't be easier. They deliver every month and you can either pick it up at a dropoff point or have it delivered to your door. www.taylorpondfarms.com. They also have Yahoo groups for specific areas (http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=taylor+pond+farms). You can also join http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/rawmeatsearch/, http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/CarnivoreFeed-Supplier, http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/WholeCatHealth/ and look through their list of links.
B. Buy online. One site used by many is www.hare-today.com. There are many other sites; the WholeCatHealth links above will help you find them.
C. Buy meat at the grocery store. Your choices will be limited but if all you're going to feed is chicken, that's fine. Just be sure that the meat is hormone and antibiotic free - or organic.
2. Choosing a method.
A. Whole prey. This may be either meat, bones and organs all ground together, or it may be chunks of meat and whole bones and organs. With this method you do not need to supplement. Your cat will be eating a properly balanced meal.
B. Just meat. Again, this can be either chunks of meat or it can be ground. If you do not include bones and organs, you will need to add supplements to ensure that the meals are complete and balanced.
To learn more about these methods, check out these Yahoo groups: (http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=raw+feeding+cat)
3. Supplements. If you've chosen to serve meat without organs/bones, you will need to add supplements. There are a few different ways to do this. You can purchase a ready-made supplement such as Instincts TC (http://www.felinefuture.com/) or Wysong's Call of the Wild (http://www.wysong.net/page/WOTTPWS/PROD/CALL_OF_THE_WILD). Or you can put together your own mixture. There are tons of recipes out there. One example is here (http://www.catnutrition.org/foodmaking.php). One of the raw feeding groups is dedicated to one particular supplement: (http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/felinefuturediet/).
4. Meats. Most meats are appropriate but you may want to avoid pork. The most commonly used meat is chicken. My vet suggested feeding a variety, so my choices are chicken, turkey and rabbit. If it becomes available I'll also try venison. Lamb and duck were rejected. It'll be up to you and your cat what to feed.
5. Converting your cats. If you've got a kibble junky on your hands, it might be easier to first convert him or her to canned food, and then try the raw. This has been a tried and true method for many including myself. Once the cats are happily eating canned food, start slipping a bit of meat into it. Just a speck to start with. Gradually increase that amount. If the cat balks, back down a bit but keep at it.
When you're ready to try it alone, you may need bribes. Raw meat has little scent so it can be helpful to add something stinky your cat likes. Crush some kibble and sprinkle it over the top. Try fish or liver flakes, parmesan cheese, a drop of soy sauce, meaty baby food (with no added onion or garlic), whatever it takes.
Note that you do not have to start with canned. You may be able to toss down a hunk of chicken and your cat will devour it. You never know until you try.
If you join any or all of the above groups, you'll find many more tips as well.
Patience and perseverence is the key. I was surprised at how readily Poppy took to the chicken after being on canned food for a year, but Sophie who is not normally picky has been resisting. What she doesn't know is that she's getting a bit of chicken along with her Wellness. (NOTE: Mushier canned foods may do better to hide the meat than the denser varieties such as Instincts).
Last but not least - relax! If you're researching this you may become overwhelmed at the tons of info out there, and all the conflicting opinions about what is best. What you need to do is choose the method that will work for YOU and your cats.
Source Link: My blog
